Frequently
Asked Questions
Septic
Systems are great when
they are working!
Septic systems do an amazing
job of returning liquids
to the soil for purification.
They can continue to operate
effectively for over twenty
years with proper use
and regular tank pumping.
But when they fail, the
conditions they create
are dangerous! These can
include:
- Toxic
sewage surfacing in
the yard
- Health
hazards to children
and pets
- Noxious
odors over large areas
- Polluted
streams and ponds
- Sewage
back-up in buildings
- Contaminated
wells
- Breeding
areas
for
mosquitoes

Septic
system failure is practically
inevitable.
Septic
system failures are
the result of
many processes,
most of which
are out of sight
and occurring unnoticed.
The processes
include:
- Soil
clogging by organic
material
that is flushed out
of the
septic
tank
- Soil
clogging by chemicals
from water conditioners
and laundry
detergents
- Hydrogen
sulfide deterioration
of concrete
components
- Tree
and shrub
root
intrusion that
clogs pipes
- Excessive
surface water
flowing into
the septic
tank and/or
the leach
field
- Excessive
water from
building drains
- Restricted
liquid flow
due to
improper design
and/or installation
- Restricted
liquid flow
due to
structural damage
to the
leach
field
Nearly
all processes that lead
to failure
can be
eliminated.
Homeowners
Tips
Do's
and Don'ts
- Do
spread automatic washer
use over the week
rather
than
many loads
on one
day.
- Do
make a permanent record
of
where the key parts of your
system are located
for future maintenance,
such as tank pump outs
or field
repairs.
- Do
keep records of pump outs
and maintenance.
- Do
use water conserving devices
where possible. Low flush
toilets and shower
heads are
commonly available.
- Do
have manually cleaned
lint traps on your automatic
washer.
- Do
check any pumps, siphons,
or other moving parts
of your system regularly.
- Do
remove or prevent trees
with
large root systems
growing near the disposal
field.
- Do
maintain a healthy grass
cover over the
disposal field to use some of the
water
and to prevent
erosion.
- Do
keep surface water from
upslope or from roof
drains away from the disposal field.
- Do
check your interceptor
drain regularly
to ensure that it is free-flowing.
- Do
compost your kitchen
waste or include
it in your garbage. A garbage grinder
should be installed only
when
the septic tank is oversized, and
the
tank will need to be pumped more
often.
Don’ts
- Don’t
overload the system
with high volumes
of water.
- Don’t
connect basement sump
pumps
to the
on-site system.
- Don’t
connect backwash from
water
treatment
devices directly
to the on-site
system without
professional advice.
- Don’t
allow large amounts
of fats, chemicals,
or solvents to
enter the
system; don’t allow
any plastics
to enter.
- Don’t
use septic
tank additives. They
are
not
beneficial, and may
damage your
disposal
system. Active
bacteria are
naturally
present
in
sewage. Even
with
additives,
regular
pumping
of solids
is still required.
- Don’t
enter a
septic tank
without proper ventilation,
a second
person
(adult) above ground,
and other
requirements of
the Department
of Labour
for confined
spaces. Sewer
gases can
be fatal.
- Don’t
allow vehicles
or heavy equipment
to drive
over
or park on
the disposal
field.
This may
compact
the
soil
and
crush
the piping.
- Don’t
plant
anything
over
the
disposal
field
except
grass;
especially,
don’t
cover
the
tank
or
field
with
asphalt
or
concrete
or
other
impermeable
material.
- Don’t
put
in
a
separate pipe
to carry wash
waters
to
a side
ditch or
woods.
These ‘greywaters’ also
contain
disease
carrying
organisms
- Don’t
wait
for signs of
failure.
Check the
system
regularly.
- Don’t
flush:
- coffee
grounds
-
dental floss
- paints
- disposable
diapers
-
kitty
litter
-
varnishes
- sanitary
napkins
-
tampons
-
waste
oils
- cigarette
butts
-
condoms
-
poisons
- fats,
grease
and
oils
- paper
towels
-
thinners
- disinfectants
-
pesticides
- photographic
chemicals
-
other
chemical
wastes.
Your
system is
failing if
one or
more of
the following
conditions exists:
- All
of the
drains from
the house
are slow.
- There
is a
persistent
wet
area over
the leach
field.
- Sewage
is surfacing
in the
area of
the septic
tank or
distribution
box.
- There
is sewage
seeping
through
the
foundation.
How's
your
septic
system?
- Take
this
quick
Homeowner's
Test
to
determine
the
status
of
your
septic
system's
leach
field.
- The
liquid
level
in
the
leach
field
is
at
the
top
of
the
crushed
rock
layer,
the
chambers
or
other
underground
structures.
- The
vegetation
over
the
leach
field
is
greener
and
more
lush
than
over
adjacent
areas
of
the
yard.
- There
is
a
sewage
odor
in
the
yard
at
times
or
constantly.
- There
is
a
flow
back
from
the
leach
field
when
the
septic
tank
is
pumped.
- The
septic
tank
needs
to
be
pumped
frequently.
- The
septic
tank
discharge
baffle
is
damaged
or
missing.
- Rain
water
seems
to
take
longer
to
disappear
over
the
leach
field
than
over
adjacent
areas
of
the
yard.
- Well
water
is
contaminated.
If
any
of
these
conditions
are
present,
call
us
today,
toll
free
at
877-378-4279!
Your
septic
system
may
be
a
candidate
for
the
White
Knight ® Microbial
Inoculator/Generator,
an
economical,
environmentally
sound
and
permanent
alternative
to
leach
field
replacement.
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